Orvieto

The medieval hilltop "ghost town" of Civita di Bagnoregio, not far from Orvieto. A very steep climb but no problem for two very fit South Dakotans

Orvieto, Locanda Rosati, Daytrips 

The last stop on your adventure will be the Agriturismo Locanda Rosati and the nearby hill town of Orvieto. 

It is only about 2 hours drive from Volterra down to Orvieto. So I recommend you stop and enjoy Orvieto before you go on to the Locanda Rosati, which is west of town. 

Here is a map: 


And here is a detailed view of where you should park: 


Orvieto "Scalo" refers to "Lower Orvieto." Everything you want to see is in the upper part of Orvieto, so follow the map to the large public parking lot near the end of the Funicular (Vertical railway)

Pay to park here, display your ticket in the dash. Assuming you leave Volterra at 10 I would recommend you plan to stay 5 hours in Orvieto. 

Before you leave this area, go check out the impressive "Pozzo San Patrizio." This is an immense, deep well that you can actually walk down into on a double helix staircase. Read more here: 


Buy your tickets at the ticket office which is right next to the funicular, opposite the parking lot. And as always in Italy, be certain to cover your luggage and other valuables in the car before leaving.  Have your passports on your person rather than leaving in your luggage. 

After the Pozzo San Patrizio, walk up the broad avenue - called Corso Cavour - that is located beyond the parking lot, on the left. It is tree-lined and residential with a mix of businesses for most of the way, all the way up to the heart of the town. Skip the Cathedral for now, because it will be getting close to lunch and I want you to go and have your meal at my friend Carlo, at "Trattoria da Carlo." This tiny, tucked away place will delight you with his delicious pastas, I personally love the carbona. Show him my photo, tell him you're my brother. And remember, everyone in Italy knows me simply as "James." 

Here is a bit more about da Carlo: 


To find him, as you walk into the heart of Orvieto you will see in front of you a very tall tower with a big white clock. At that tower you will see a small sign pointing to the right, to da Carlo. Walk down that narrow alleyway and there he is. 

After your lunch, keep wandering down that same alleyway (away from the clock tower) and you wil soon be in the Piazza del Popolo. This is a large palace and pleasant square, just a nice place to take pictures and look around. Keep walking in a westerly direction, you are heading for the ramparts on the west side of the town, where you will be rewarded with a terrific view. If you are using Google Maps, you will set your destination for 

Chiesa di San Giovenale at the address of Via Volsinia

This ancient church has some very beautiful paintings. It is definitely worth a visit. And then, from the nearby ramparts, you can look down and around at the beautiful countryside. 

After this, make your way by winding your way around the narrow and winding lanes to the Piazza della Republica. This is just another nice part of town to sit and relax and watch people for a while. 

Back on the main drag, keep your eyes out to the right for some nice wood carvings and creations. The studios "Bottega Michelangeli

http://www.brigolante.com/blog/2014/07/bottega-michelangeli-orvieto-vacation-rental/

When you get to Locanda Rosati you will see a lot of this artist's work decorating the interior fo the house and your room. Just fun to look at. 

Keep walking down that little lane and turn to the right, you are heading in a lazy way to the next cool street, Via dei Magoni. This is a neat lane full of artisans shops and it's fun to shop around. 

Next is the amazing Duomo of Orvieto. This incredible church holds the "Miracle of Bolsena," which you can read about here: 

http://www.therealpresence.org/eucharst/mir/bolsena.html

Don't strain your eyes trying to find it, it's kept locked up except on high religious holidays. But the chapel where it is kept, at the left, front of the church is pretty and worth a look. 

Also worth a look is the chapel on the right, front of the church. This requires a special ticket for access, otherwise, the visit to the church is free. Notice the windows, made from alabaster. (Like what you just saw in Volterra) 

Take time to examine the front of the church, including the scenes of Heaven and Judgment Day, scary stuff in the 14th century. 

Across the square is the ticket office for "Underground Orvieto," which is mildly interesting. 

ON TO LOCANDA ROSATI 

https://goo.gl/maps/f3RipkbYzdKJ71kt8

You will be leaving the parking lot the way you came but only to the point about 1/3 of the way down the hill where you will turn sharp left, near the old Etruscan Cemetery. Be careful, this is a tight turn and traffic is fast. 

If you want to, you can set "Tamburino" as a midway point to be sure you are on the right road. You will pass the modern cemetery, marked with lots of tall cypress pines. You will start to climb and climb, coming shortly to a beautiful overview with a parking lot which is definitely worth a stop. 

On to Locanda Rosati, which has a driveway set at an angle to the road requiring another very tight turn, this time to the right. Follow the gravel road and take the left hand fork, this puts you at the back of the house in a big, broad grassy parking lot. That's the best place to park because it saves you from having to haul your luggage up the stairs to your room, which is going to be on this same level. Leave your luggage in the car and just bring your passports to check in.

Walk around to the bottom of the house, where there is a small reception. Don't worry if there is no one there, if the office is not attended they are probably in the kitchen. (Practice your Italian for "we have a reservation" and "our name is"  which will also help you with restaurants. 

Your stay will include the 4-course family-style dinner which starts at 8. Everything is included, even the wine, which I find to be excellent. Warning that rabbit is a very common dish in this part of Italy, but you don't have to eat it, you can just have another portion of pasta! 

You can also buy a bottle of wine from reception to enjoy out in the garden before dinner. It may be warm enough to use the pool, which is in the garden. 

Breakfast starts at 8:30 (I think) and their "ouvo strapazati" (scrambled eggs) are fantastic, with plenty of olive oil. Coffee is very strong. Tea is also available. You can enjoy it on one of the many outside tables if the weather is fair.

Your host, Giampiero Rosati, speaks perfect English as will his female receptionist if she is there when you arrive.

Excursion: 

Civita di Bagnoregio

A tiny town on top of a fragile clay and rock outcrop which will remind you of the North Dakota Badlands. You would set your navigation for this: 

https://goo.gl/maps/gio5WrN54SwTKuD16

There is a parking lot at the base of the hill, so you can ignore the big parking lot which is waaay up the hill, where most tourists park.  

Nearby Bolsena is also nice to walk around. The huge lake is a former volcanic crater.

 

 

 



 

  

 

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